Paris....in the rain? Still glorious...

The Eiffel Tower on a very, very cloudy day.




It has been unseasonably chilly and very rainy for a week, and the rain is forecasted to continue for another week. When it is not raining, it is usually cloudy. And, I am just now really getting over the head cold that I caught last week, so because of the constant wind, chill, and rain, I've not been able to leave without a scarf around my neck. It has really felt almost like Oregon in the fall--except people are much more impressively and elegantly dressed.

But I'm not complaining, and I have to say that it is probably very fortunate that the weather has been so intemperate for the last week--and that the bad weather will hold for the next week.

Now, why would I be happy for unpleasant weather?

Well, it has been much easier to buckle down and spend hours reading and researching in the Musee du quai Branly Mediatheque when it is raining outside. I was there most days this week, and have appointments to see some of the especially rare items next week. Once I was able to get myself to sit still, it was such a pleasure to focus on the issues that brought me here in a more intense way. I am also happy to report that I have a clearer idea of a dissertation topic that I might pursue for the time being... I shared a few photographs of one side of the museum with you last week, and here is one of the other side (on the side of the Seine.) As you can see, it is almost hidden by trees, and then there is a large glass wall further separating the actual museum from the street. It seems quite well-fortified. I should get pictures of the algae-covered moat on the other side for you.




And even studying in the library can be glamorous here. There was a fashion photo shoot on the roof, just outside the library windows, when I was there the other day. Seriously. That sure doesn't happy at Olin or Sibley.

For quite a few days, I didn't even feel much like walking around, but I've been back to my hyper-ambulatory ways in the last couple of days. The summer clothing sales are going on, which I'll address in the Fashion Issue, but today's wanderings involved two more wonderful museums. First was the Museum de la Mode et du Costume, which will also be reserved for the Fashion Issue. After I left there, I found a delightful market in progress behind it! The next time I spend a few months in Paris--because I really, really, really hope there will be a next time!--I really need to have better kitchen facilities so that I can take full advantage of the amazing fresh seafood and vegetables available. But in the meantime, I did what I could, and purchased a scrumptious galette (savory buckwheat crepe) with mushrooms, tomatoes and cheese from an artisanal creperie....

I then went to the Musee d'Art Moderne, which was across the street from the Musee de la Mode (both of which are only a half hour's brisk walk from my apartment...). One of the temporary exhibitions there is a Kara Walker show, which includes her very early large silhouette installations and drawings, as well as her very recent videos. Needless to say, for those of you who know her work, it was a powerful, moving, and provocative show. It was that much more complicated to think about contemporary and historical racism in the American South from the 16th arrondissement of Paris, France.

And for your future reference, there is free admission to view the permanent collections at the Musee d'Art Moderne. Again, too many amazing pieces to mention! There were quite a few pieces by Robert Delaunay, who I'd been thinking about quite a bit in the spring, largely because of my admiration for the work of his wife, Sonia Delaunay, an artist and fashion designer who also acted as Robert Delaunay's business agent, collaborator, and muse. I thought several times that Sonia Deluanay's work might be there if she'd had a wife to advocate for her as he did (if you knew about his lack of business acumen, you could really appreciate this conjecture). The aesthetics of their work fed off that of the other, and both adhered to a theory called "Orphism," and used bright and contrasting colors. Here is one of Robert Delaunay's many paintings inspired by the Eiffel Tower to counteract the glum, cloudy photograph that began this post.




Robert Delaunay, Tour Eiffel, 1926






Entrance to the Musee d'Art Moderne



And I haven't even told you about one of my adventures that exacerbated my cold! As I mentioned, the conference last week was stimulating and fascinating. The closing dinner was also intriguing, although perhaps in different ways. It was catered by Les Ombres (translation: The Shadows....I'll refrain from editorializing about the name right now, but since I've told you about the non-lighting of the museum, you might not be surprised at this name), which is the very fancy, very expensive restaurant on the top of the Musee du quai Branly. I see it out of the window of the Mediatheque, but it is doubtful that I'll be eating there any time soon. _So_, I jumped at the chance for a dinner from there _and_ a cruise on the Seine for a discount student price. And when I decided to purchase the ticket, I decided that I would abandon all of my usual dietary concerns, and eat whatever was placed before me.

So, it was great fun. I sat with nine fascinating people, but could only really hear four of them because the boat was so loud. The food was amazing and in and of itself very interesting and artistic, and totally worth the worsened head cold and the resulting stomachache (although I certainly couldn't eat and drink like that every day). So, you ask, what did I have? I'll spare you the French titles, and just describe it. The appetizer was a gorgeous seafood and vegetable creation well within my habits...The main dish was a complicated ensemble of foie gras, chicken, and asparagus. Yes, I know, foie gras, Amanda eating foie gras--ooh la la! And the dessert was a just perfect raspberry tart accompanied by a little glass of other red fruits cut up and in juice. I even drank the after dinner espresso, which was just perfect, as well.

But it was all a bit too much France for my system, and thus the restful, studious, but still pleasant week that I've had since then!